Madrid Me Mata: Location Dispatch from Spain

Madrid’s 1919 “ghost station” designed by architect Antonio Palacios, was my favorite location. One of Madrid’s first subway stations, Chamberi was Inspired by the Parisian subways, with white and cobalt blue tiles. Ceramic panels of 1920s period ads for Longines watches, mineral water, and local stores and restaurants are works of art. During the Spanish Civil War, the station sheltered residents from Nationalist and Nazi bombs, and the station’s diesel engines powered large parts of the city. With modernization in 1960, longer trains required longer platforms. Built on a curve, and only a short distance from neighboring stations, Chamberi was no longer useful and closed in 1966, abandoned for decades. In 2008 Madrid Metro had the foresight to restore it and turn it into a museum, with trains still passing through.

While a research center for construction sciences might sound niche, the Instituto Eduardo Torroja, founded in 1934, is a fascinating historical time capsule of midcentury modernism and functionalist architecture. The Institute carries out R&D in the field of construction and its materials, in particular concrete. Torroja was a structural engineer who pioneered concrete shell buildings popular in the 50s. He believed that “Each material has a distinct, specific personality, and each form exhibits a different tensional phenomenon.” The bespoke furniture, sweeping staircases, round cafeteria, and curved library shelves in Torroja’s office (where he died at the age of 61) are a midcentury delight.

Speaking of concrete, another highlight for me was the iconic Torres Blancas, an odd combination of brutalism and organicism—concrete circular walls and elevated gardens—designed by Saénz de Oiza in 1961. Ironically the original plan for white marble was prohibitively expensive, and the towers are grey. The name was retained to honor its original design inspired by the architectural aesthetics of Corbusier. It’s no wonder many of the apartments are owned by well-heeled architects. Sadly the swimming pool was closed for repairs but the 60s chic top floor restaurant is no longer functioning and was available for a tour.

The Palacio de Longoria is an Art Nouveau masterpiece that now houses the Spanish Society of Authors and Publishers (SGAE). Located in Malasaña, it is one of few Modernist buildings in Madrid. It was constructed between 1902 and 1904 by José Grases Riera for the financier Javier González Longoria as both a residence and offices for his bank. Palacio de Longoria is known for its ornate nouveau exterior, with organic forms of women and plants. Elaborate ornamentation saturates the building, including palm tree pillars whose fronds support the rounded windows. The rich art nouveau motif continues inside, with a commanding circular imperial staircase topped with a imposing stained glass and iron dome.

Casa de Campo is Spain’s largest green space and Madrid’s most expansive park. Once a Royal Forest, for centuries this heavily wooded area served as hunting grounds for the royal family. It was open to the public in 1930. Here we found another faded curiosity—Feria del Campo. These abandoned fairgrounds are filled with forgotten pavilions representing different Spanish provinces. Sadly, most are in varying stages of disrepair. In the early 60s, Sergio Leone’s spaghetti western “A Fistful of Dollars” shot in the Case de Toledo Pavilion. The only viable structures remaining are those that were converted to restaurants or event venues.

The somber and beautiful Cementerio de Nuestra Señora de La Almudena is Madrid’s largest cemetery. It boasts a fascinating history and range of architectural styles—mausoleums, pantheons, and monuments ranging from dreamy neoromantic to formal neoclassical to exotic Moorish revival. Established in 1884 to address the cholera epidemic, it is also one of the largest cemeteries in Western Europe. Perhaps most interesting historically are the monuments commemorating political opponents and revolutionaries, particularly during the Spanish Civil War. More than 3,000 people were executed in the cemetery between 1939 and 1944, and are now memorialized. Additionally Las Trece Rosas commemorates thirteen young women killed by Franco’s troops.

A recent project had me scouting housing options throughout Europe, so I was interested in seeing residential alternatives. We dropped into el Matadero, the slaughterhouse and cattle market that is now a vibrant art center. Not yet fully developed, it offers a variety of versatile filming locations. Nearby is a yellow neighborhood, known as la Pequeña Cuba, perhaps built to accommodate the Matadero workers. Its colonial buildings are reminiscent of Havana and old San Juan.

Madrid has had a wave of new architects receiving grants for innovative public housing designs that are sustainable and encourage social interaction. We looked at a variety of housing options, from large communal silos to brightly colored containers. The development of social housing on the peripheral areas of the city seems to be an ongoing experiment of segmenting urban spaces. For some reason I’m drawn to the rougher edges of life… abandoned decay and squalor. We carefully explored Cañada Real—Europe’s largest illegal settlement. The 9-mile linear shanty town is comprised of 6 sectors with varying degrees of drugs and poverty mixed with normal houses. As the city’s hunger for more housing grows, continued threats of demolition continue to make way for new housing.

I had the pleasure of staying at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Madrid Prado, just across the street from one of my favorite museums, near El Retiro park. Centrally located on its very own plaza and close to great restaurants and endless culture, the hotel is proud to be part of Radisson’s Center Stage initiative that welcomes filmmakers with unique benefits. My balcony overlooked Plaza de la Plateria Martinez. I was just around the corner from Spain’s National Day Parade down Paseo del Prado on the day I arrived. Again, thanks to Alfonso Trancón, the Film Madrid Region, and the Radisson Blu Hotel, Madrid Prado for a closer look at their dynamic city. Madrid me mata!