Discovering Lyon: A Journey Through History, Silk, and Cour des Loges Lyon, A Radisson Collection Hotel

Set in the heart of Vieux Lyon, Cour des Loges is made up of four historic Renaissance houses, originally built for merchants, bankers, and printers during the city’s most prosperous era. Walking through the hotel feels like stepping into another century, one where craftsmanship, beauty, and balance shaped everything. 

The buildings date back to the 15th and 16th centuries, and their restoration in the 1980s was done with great care and sensitivity. Cour des Loges has not been modernised in the flashy sense. It has been preserved, celebrated, and gently reimagined. High ceilings, stone staircases, soft lighting, painted walls, quiet corners, it all flows together to create something rare. It is elegant without ever being cold, refined but still deeply human. 

The Italian influence on Lyon’s Renaissance heritage is visible throughout, from the architectural symmetry to the poetic flow of the interior spaces. Staying here felt like being part of a living, breathing museum, but with all the comfort and ease you could want from a luxury hotel. 

Stepping into my room at Cour des Loges felt like crossing into another time. It was as though I had been gently placed inside a Renaissance painting, where every detail spoke in soft tones of beauty and history. Exposed timber beams framed the space, and carved woodwork added a sense of artistry and soul. The lighting was warm and low, casting quiet shadows that made the room feel cocooned and calm. 

Nothing felt overdone or contrived. The space had a natural elegance, shaped by centuries of architecture and preserved with thoughtful restraint. Each room in the hotel is different, its shape and personality formed by the original bones of the building, which makes every stay feel entirely personal. 

The bathroom was a sanctuary of its own, glossy vintage tiles in soft hues, intricate mosaic patterns underfoot, and large, ornate mirrors framed in gilded wood that reflected the soft light beautifully. The fixtures balanced classic charm with modern luxury, from the polished brass taps to the deep soaking tub that invited moments of pure indulgence. 

The bed was cloud-soft, the atmosphere hushed. There was a rare kind of silence at night, complete and comforting. It was not just a place to rest, but a place to linger. To slow down, to breathe, to write, to dream. A room not simply to stay in, but to feel something in.

Food is central to the experience at Cour des Loges, and each of its restaurants feels like a destination in its own right. 

We enjoyed a lunch at Le Comptoir, the hotel’s more relaxed dining space. The design is warm and inviting, with contemporary touches that sit beautifully within the renaissance walls. Chef Anthony Bonnet brings a thoughtful, seasonal approach to the menu, creating dishes that are expressive without being overly complicated. It was the perfect pause between explorations. 

Dinner at Les Loges was unforgettable. Set beneath a Florentine-style glass roof in the hotel’s central courtyard, this fine dining restaurant is truly special. The atmosphere is dreamlike, softly lit, with the sky visible above. Each dish felt like part of a greater story. This was not just a meal, it was an experience to hold onto. 

The city itself is a wonder. Lyon is deeply walkable, with layers of history unfolding as you turn each corner. From our base at Cour des Loges, we wandered through the streets of Vieux Lyon, discovering hidden courtyards, climbing ancient staircases, and pausing in the shade of Renaissance façades. The traboules, those secret passageways connecting buildings, felt like a storybook come to life. 

Our morning tour took us to landmarks such as Cathédrale Saint-Jean, Palace de la Trinité, and the quiet grace of Glycée Saint-Georges. These places are not showy. They are simply there, full of stillness and depth. 

One of the highlights was lunch at Daniel et Denise, where we had the chance to meet the chef and enjoy beautifully prepared Lyonnaise cuisine. It was traditional, soulful, and genuinely delicious. 

Taking the funicular from Vieux Lyon to Fourvière Hill was one of those simple pleasures that turned into something unforgettable. At the top, the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière awaited us, gleaming white in the sun. The interior was magnificent, ornate mosaics, quiet chapels, golden light. 

We also took the rare opportunity to tour the rooftops of the basilica, where the view over Lyon is nothing short of extraordinary. The red rooftops, the winding rivers, the rhythm of the city laid out below, it gave me a new perspective, not just physically, but emotionally. 

While wandering the streets of Vieux Lyon, we stopped at Pralus, the home of the legendary Praluline, a sweet, buttery brioche filled with bright pink praline almonds. It is rich, flaky, and utterly irresistible, made using a closely guarded family recipe that dates back to August Pralus, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France in pastry. Today, it remains one of Lyon’s most iconic delicacies. The shop we visited was just a short walk from Cour des Loges, nestled along a cobbled street in Vieux Lyon.  

Lyon has long been known for its silk, and this part of its identity still breathes in workshops and ateliers across the city. We visited Atelier des Soieries on Rue Romarin, where we watched silk scarves being hand-printed using traditional screen techniques. The skill, the patience, the precision, it was humbling. These artisans are not just continuing a craft. They are keeping a story alive. 

When I think of Lyon now, what lingers first is the golden light resting gently on old stone facades, the way it caught the curves of centuries-old buildings and made the city glow like a secret treasure. I think of the hush in hidden courtyards, the quiet moments between footsteps, where time seems to fold in on itself. I think of a perfect plate of food savoured slowly, each bite carrying the weight of tradition and love, of silk ribbons being carefully inked with centuries of craftsmanship, a glass of wine lifted beneath a painted ceiling alive with history and warmth. 

Most of all, I think of that room at Cour des Loges, a place where past and present coexisted with gentle harmony. The kind of room where stories whisper softly through the walls and where every detail invites you to pause, reflect, and simply be. 

I came for the hotel, drawn by its promise of timeless elegance and soul. I stayed for the city, captivated by its layers of history, culture, and warmth. And I left with far more than I ever expected, memories etched in light and shadow, moments of quiet beauty and spirited joy, and a feeling of having discovered something rare and enduring. 

Lyon is a city that stays with you long after you leave. And I know I will return, not just to walk its streets or taste its food, but to once again be part of its gentle rhythm and timeless story.