Marseille began at the water's edge, where Greeks from Phocaea founded Massalia around 600 BC. Start at the Vieux-Port, then climb into Le Panier, the city's oldest district, to find the Vieille Charité, the diamond-point façade of the Maison Diamantée, and Place de Lenche on the site of the ancient agora.

Across the harbor, the Abbey of Saint-Victor dates back to the 5th century, with crypts full of ancient sarcophagi. Fort Saint-Jean overlooks the port entrance, and a short boat ride takes you to Château d'If, the 16th-century island fortress Dumas chose as Edmond Dantès's prison. Wear comfortable shoes, since Le Panier is full of steps.

Calanques National Park brings protected coastline right to Marseille's edge. A national park since 2012, it protects coves, islands, and sea between Marseille and La Ciotat, and it was the first national park in Europe to combine land, sea, islands, and an urban edge.

Hike to Sormiou, Morgiou, or Sugiton, or try kayaking, climbing, or diving. Sugiton visits can be booked in advance through the park, and access conditions can change, so check them in real time before you go. In cooler months, the Étoile and Garlaban massifs offer more trails.

Marseille pairs its ancient sites with striking modern design. The Mucem, opened in 2013 with a main building by Rudy Ricciotti, links by footbridge to Fort Saint-Jean, while Norman Foster's Ombrière shades the Vieux-Port under a roof of polished steel.

Farther out, Le Corbusier's Cité Radieuse offers guided tours, a rooftop terrace with sea views, and the MaMo art center. Palais Longchamp, inaugurated in 1869, houses the Fine Arts Museum, the city's oldest, alongside the Natural History Museum. On a rainy day, add the Vieille Charité or the Musée Cantini.